The Wild Atlantic Way is probably one of the most impressive coastal roads in the world, and it rightly deserves this title. The approximately 2500km long route, which winds its way from the south of Ireland on the west coast to the far north, is not only lined with majestic cliffs, but also with a variety of adventures and exciting encounters. E&M author Janina Kehrer takes you on a road trip to a small section of the wonderfully rough and also a little magical and even romantic Wild Atlantic Way. And what a tiny donkey farm has to do with the romance along the Wild Atlantic Way – well, you’ll find out below.
With five friends who started their road trip through Ireland in a much too small rental car, our adventure through the beautiful and breathtaking Irish wonderlands began. One thing should be said in advance: if you want to immerse yourself in peaceful landscapes and stunning panoramas to relax, the Emerald Isle is definitely the right place for you. With its thriving flora and fauna and a pleasantly cool climate with a fresh breeze, relaxation begins as soon as you leave Dublin Airport behind. And although you could probably spend a week-long holiday in any of Ireland’s 32 counties, we were drawn to a very special section of the country: the Wild Atlantic Way. The famous coastal road attracts hikers and tourists from all over the world, impressing them with its winding roads, magnificent cliffs, secluded beaches, and colorful coastal towns. Behind every bend in the road, you can encounter small or big adventures, and it is not uncommon to end up in the most wondrous places before you even come close to the actual destination of the day.
So it happens that we end up in the small town of Cobh in southern County Cork before we really arrive at the Wild Atlantic Way. And lo and behold: it turns out that the quaint village, with its colorful house facades and the impressive cathedral at its center, was the last anchorage of the Titanic before it sailed toward its inevitable fate. The inhabitants don’t let you forget that the most famous ship in the world made its last stop here: every shop window and every pub is decorated with pictures, drawings, and photographs of the Titanic, and a harbor restaurant with rather steep prices invites you to linger at the place where the anchorage must have been. While huge cruise ships dock here during the day, whose monstrous dimensions do not seem to match the almost toy-like rows of houses, the locals enjoy the fact that in the evening, the tourists disappear as soon as it gets dark and the cruise ships leave. Then it’s time to visit the local pubs and have a good time with fairly affordable Guinness, cider, and good old guitar music. The locals here are proud of their special history, noticeable by the fact that one or two people in the pub actually wear Titanic shirts.
As we leave this unexpected short trip into history the next morning, we finally get started: we embark on the first sections of the Wild Atlantic Way. On the way to the Ring of Kerry, our first major stage destination, we pass the Old Head of Kinsale, a spectacular headland where we have our first beautiful cliff view. A commemorative plaque reminds us of the sinking of the RMS Lusitania in 1915, which took place just a few kilometers from the headland. Unfortunately, it is not possible to explore the headland to its tip, as it belongs to a private golf club. Nevertheless, we feel like we have really arrived and are happy to have breathed the first truly wild sea air.
As we continue toward the Ring of Kerry, we pass the next highlight a short time later: the Carrantuohill. The Carrantuohill, located not far from the town of Killarney, is, at its height of 1,039 meters, the highest mountain in Ireland and amazes you with its majestic size even as you drive by. Unfortunately, we are not equipped for the unsafe and roughly eight-hour ascent, so we have to be satisfied with marveling at the summit from a distance.
But as soon as we have passed the Carrantuohill and are approaching today’s destination, “Valentia Island,” there is already something else to marvel at: higher and higher cliff landscapes that adorn the route. Valentia Island is an island with 665 inhabitants at the far end of the Ring of Kerry, connected to the mainland by a bridge. As we drive along the narrow island roads, we can hardly believe our luck when we drive over a hill and reach our accommodation for the next few days: we have an absolutely spectacular view of the wild Atlantic. Just a stone’s throw away from our accommodation, high cliffs rise where huge waves break, the sound of which we can hear all the way into our living room. That same evening, we venture down to the unsecured cliffs and venture almost to the edge – but only almost. The deep abyss at the foot of the cliffs, where the Atlantic Ocean crashes its enormous waves, is too humbling. But there it is, in all its beauty: the wild Atlantic Ocean.
And even more of the wild Atlantic is offered when we get into the car the next morning. We don’t manage to get far before signs pointing to the so-called “Kerry Cliffs” promise us “the view of the most beautiful cliffs in Kerry.” Of course, we have to check this out, and after a short ascent, we immediately realize that the promise was not a false one: the first view of the Kerry Cliffs literally blows us away. And it’s not just the strong winds that play a role, but the absolutely breathtaking view of the cliffs that rise over 300 meters from the Atlantic. In good weather, there are not only spectacular views of the cliffs but also of the Skellig Islands and Puffin Island. Puffin Island is named after the famous puffin birds, which, with a bit of luck, can be spotted along the Irish coast, recognizable by their distinctive red-orange beak. Skellig Island, on the other hand, became famous for its sixth-century monastery, located on one of the two peaks of the islands, and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, the Skellig Islands became even more famous through filming for some of the Star Wars movies that were shot here. If you want to visit the famous monastery, don’t make the same mistake we did: get tickets for one of the boats that take tourists to the island well in advance.
As an alternative program, however, a wonderful little hiking trail can be recommended, which starts from Derrynane Beach, only 50 minutes away by car. The so-called “Derrynane Mass Path” is a trail that at first seems to meander from the small beach bay into the middle of the bushes. It leads through a variety of impressive small landscapes, and at each bend in the path, you get the feeling of immersing yourself in a new fantasy world. First, you climb over small cliff spurs overgrown with orange and purple wildflowers, then you enter a fairy-like forest where you feel that Frodo and his hobbit friends might be sitting under the next root, waiting for the black riders.
A few twists and turns, and a few meters of elevation later, you walk through misty fog-streaked trails, with great views over the coast. You could swear Daenerys Targaryen will land here with one of her dragons at any moment.
The varied landscapes on the Emerald Isle are truly magical and offer new breathtaking panoramic views and impressive scenes around every corner. And literally, you only have to get in the car for a few minutes to face the next adventure. Fantastic hiking trails: here you go. Breathtaking panoramas: over here. Lonely beaches: right over there.
When we leave the Ring of Kerry a few days later, we head for what is probably the largest and most famous attraction in Ireland: the Cliffs of Moher. And one thing should be said right away: if the previous cliff landscapes were already impressive, there is probably no suitable verb to describe the Cliffs of Moher. The cliff range, which stretches over 8 kilometers and in some places rises over 200 meters from the Atlantic, is not for nothing the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland.
The tension rises as we climb the short ascent followed by a series of stairs early in the morning to reach the first of many viewpoints on the cliffs. We are not disappointed – the view is breathtaking. The cliffs rise majestically from the ocean while the wild waves crash against them, and thousands of seagulls circle around, flying to their countless nesting sites. The only verb that can approximate the feeling that arises when looking at the Cliffs of Moher is perhaps “humble.” Because humbled is what you feel when you marvel at this natural wonder. The sight of the cliffs, stretching along the coast into the never-ending horizon, is indescribable.
As the hiking trails along the cliffs fill up with more and more tourists, we keep an eye out for the famous rock formation filmed in Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. We quickly spot it and discover the striking cave entrance where Harry Potter and his mentor Dumbledore stand as they set out in search of important magical artifacts. Fun fact: the rock on which Harry and Dumbledore stand when they look at the cave entrance in the Cliffs of Moher, in the middle of the ocean, is actually in a completely different place. The so-called “Lemon Rock,” located near Skellig Island, was digitally placed in front of the Cliffs of Moher for the film. Two impressive landscapes of Ireland were brought together for the famous scene.
We walk along the cliffs for quite a while, most of which are accessible via a path framed by fences. At the end of the path, however, you can easily reach the unsecured sections, which are almost as frequented as the fenced areas. The large warning signs that caution visitors about the danger to life do not stop people – including us – from exploring the well-trodden trails where many tourists are already on the move. After a while, the fences really do stop, and you reach a few spectacular viewpoints on the edge of the cliffs. If you dare to get close enough, you’re only a fainting spell or stumble away from falling to certain death. We make sure to always keep at least one body length away from the cliff’s edge and are cautious when taking pictures. However, the numerous warning signs posted along the cliffs show that not every visitor is as careful. Many people have lost their lives at the Cliffs of Moher – some because they became careless while taking selfies, others because they chose suicide, as evidenced by the many Samaritan signs offering help and displaying an emergency number. On the way from the parking lot to the cliffs, we even spotted a small shelter where Samaritan employees were stationed, ready to have what might be the most important conversation of someone’s life. It’s impressive work that has undoubtedly saved many lives.
We are careful while taking pictures, as is everyone else around us. You can hardly take your eyes off this stunning backdrop. This majestic location truly belongs to one of the most beautiful places in the world, that’s for sure. If you finally manage to tear yourself away from this scenery and hike back along the path, you can still stock up on drinks, snacks, or souvenirs of all kinds in the small visitor center near the cliffs. The visitor center and the few small tourist shops are embedded into the hilly landscape, resembling small hobbit caves carved into the stone. A truly refreshing and different kind of tourist hotspot. It’s an absolute must-see on the Emerald Isle.
As we drive on, we discover something mysterious. You notice them on the way to the Cliffs of Moher, and also when you leave: along almost every road, you see numerous small white signs with “Donkey Farm” handwritten in red and blue. Sometimes, one or two small blue donkeys are painted on the signs. Throughout the area, the signs appear in a wide variety of variations – sometimes only “Donkey Farm” is written, but other times they read “Donkey Farm, Match Making,” with a red heart next to the blue donkeys. This piques our curiosity. What is happening on this farm? Are the donkeys being matched up? We set off and follow the signs until we arrive at Willie Daly’s donkey farm. Once there, one of the most unusual and special adventures of our trip to Ireland awaits us – and also the most curious.
As soon as you get out of the car and enter Willie Daly’s farm, he steps out of the house to greet his new arrivals. We pay him a small entrance fee, and Willie sends us to the donkeys standing in a paddock next to his small country house. The seven donkeys and the two little ponies standing in the paddock are cute, but we’re even more intrigued by the “museum” Willie points out to us. The “museum” seems to be an old barn with signs – written in blue and red letters, of course – that say “Farm & Horse Museum” and “Match Making Museum.” So this barn is home to both a Farm and Horse Museum and a Match Making Museum? We can hardly contain our curiosity, quickly say goodbye to the donkeys, and enter the mysterious museum. And well, whatever we expected, it wasn’t this. We find ourselves in a completely cluttered room full of junk, but despite the chaos, it is totally heartwarming. A few huge donkey carts take up most of the space in the small barn. Around them are draped lots of bits and pieces, but mainly signs and newspaper clippings from matchmaking events in the area. Countless empty paint cans, brushes, and other prepared street signs lie on the ground or lean against the wall, advertising Willie’s matchmaking farm with the painted donkeys. A small TV mounted on the wall and six chairs falling apart, placed against the wall in front of it, represent the “cinema” that belongs to the museum. Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be a movie playing today, but the setting is impressive enough as it is. With just three steps, you’ve crossed the “museum” and the “cinema” – there’s no more room to move. But that’s not really the point. What makes this place special is Willie Daly’s passion for what he does. We don’t yet know exactly what that is, but it’s already noticeable. And we learn more about it when we leave the museum, and Willie presents us with the “Book of Love” in front of his house.
In fact, Willie is one of Ireland’s last real matchmakers and holds the secret of his success in his hand: his “Book of Love,” a collection of love letters and matchmaking requests from all over the world, is now so extensive that its falling-apart cover can hardly be held together by the string that wraps around it. Willie says that people from all over the world write to him, longing for the love of their lives and willing to be matched by him.
Matchmaking has a long tradition in Ireland, and Willie is already the third generation in the business of love. Every year in September, there is even an entire matchmaking festival in the nearby town of Lisdoonvarna – and with around 40,000 visitors a year, it is the largest matchmaking festival in Europe! Of course, Willie makes a special appearance there every evening, allowing visitors to enter their wishes and partner requests on paper forms.
For those who make it to the festival or visit Willie on his farm, there is a special tradition: if you put your hands on the Book of Love for 7 to 14 seconds and close your eyes (but don’t count the seconds – that’s very important), you will get married within the next six months. Six Irish months, Willie adds with a grin when the first of us dares to put her hands on the Book of Love. At least four of us participate in the little ritual. Let’s see what happens.
Time flies on the Wild Atlantic Way, and unfortunately, Willie is one of the last highlights of our journey along the beautiful coast. Some highlights remain untold, though. For example, our visit to the small perfumery in the Burren National Park, which produces fragrances from the flowers and plants of the surrounding area. Or crossing the limestone formations and marveling at the almost 6,000-year-old stone tomb that rises from the landscape, the Poulnabrone-Dolmen. As I said, an adventure awaits behind every bend in the road. But before we say goodbye to the Emerald Isle, we make a detour to the town of Galway, which gained some fame thanks to Ed Sheeran’s song “Galway Girl.” But regardless of the popular song, Galway is an absolutely worth-seeing, colorful little town. We enjoy a good Irish breakfast one last time before saying goodbye to the Wild Atlantic Way and heading back toward Dublin for our return flight. Galway marks about halfway along the Wild Atlantic Way, and so we start our journey back with a tearful eye, but also with excitement as we look forward to all the wonderful and curious adventures that await us when we explore the other half of the Wild Atlantic Way.
When that will be, and how many of us will actually be married by then, we will let you know in any case.
Images by Christian Künstle
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